Damansara City Mall, or DC Mall as it’s commonly known, initially opened in 2017 as part of a larger integrated development aimed at establishing a high-end lifestyle hub in Damansara Heights. Positioned as an upscale retail and F&B destination, it was designed to attract a discerning crowd with a curated mix of restaurants, cafés, and premium services rather than mainstream retail. While the surrounding office towers and residences have given it a built-in customer base, the mall itself has struggled to gain consistent footfall and has often appeared surprisingly quiet — even pre-pandemic. That it has managed to stay afloat through the Covid years and beyond is almost remarkable, though the steady presence of a few well-regarded dining outlets likely helps anchor its relevance. In fact, it could well be that a handful of such restaurants and specialty retail shops have ensured the mall’s survival. Now, with Pavilion Damansara Heights immediately adjacent (and still partly under construction, though some of it is already open), it remains to be seen if this synergy will benefit DC Mall, or if it will need to continue standing on its own merits.
One of DC Mall’s mainstay F&B tenants – having been operating there since the beginning – is Nero Nero, and of course we couldn’t help but wonder about that name. Emperor Nero was a Roman tyrant known for both his talent and excesses, so perhaps the restaurant’s name had something to do with these qualities. Nero ascended to the throne at just 16 years of age, and though he initially showed promise, his reign soon bore what would become its historic hallmarks of debauchery and personal indulgences. He hosted lavish wine-fuelled parties of song and scandal to such an extent that Roman historians claim he rarely appeared sober, and his drunken excesses became legendary.
It was against this backdrop that we recently visited, though we promised to be much better-behaved. We stepped into Nero Nero on the third floor at Damansara City Mall and were immediately greeted by its charming Italian bistro aesthetic. The centrepiece marble fountain, checkered floor tiles, and breezy garden terrace make for a convivial, yet polished, dining atmosphere. We loved the entire European vibe, and felt that the detail and attention paid to the ambiance suggested that we were about to have an enjoyable meal. The deli counter and wine bar beckon elegantly, and inside the open-plan space, it’s easy to imagine a lively trattoria in Puglia.
The setting feels ideal for everything from relaxed gatherings to more formal meals, with a layout that balances indoor warmth and alfresco comfort. (In fact, a sizeable group of young ladies were on hand that night to celebrate a birthday, and that, along with several other occupied tables, led to a very lively and stimulating atmosphere that never lost its air of refinement.)
As we settled in, our friendly server introduced us to Nero Nero’s thoughtfully curated menu that showcases the essence of Southern Italy through high-quality ingredients and authentically informed preparation. The kitchen is now helmed by Italian Chef Marco, whose leadership marks a new chapter at Nero Nero, bringing both authenticity and fresh inspiration to the restaurant’s culinary narrative. Meanwhile, at the forefront, Manjeet Negi serves as the General Manager of both Nero Nero in KL and also its Penang branch. Manjeet has been with Nero for over eight years, leading the front-of-house team, and told us that his longevity and dedication is communicated in his desire to ensure every guest has a comfortable, enjoyable, and memorable dining experience.
THE MEAL
We started with a couple of choices from the excellent Antipasti menu – the Carpaccio di Manzo (RM58) and Fritto Mare (RM65). The carpaccio featured a nicely presented Australian grass-fed Angus tenderloin, sliced paper-thin, and accentuated with lemon mustard oil, arugula, and shaved Grana Padano cheese. While this dish was undeniably delicious, the Fritto Mare may have been the best calamari we’ve had in recent memory. Tender, fresh, and delicately breaded and fried, this Pantai Remis-caught squid was by no means cheap, but the portion was ample, and the dish itself was incredible. The Burrata (RM58) also tempted us as we saw a couple of orders for other tables heading out from the kitchen, but we refrained in favour of moving to the next course.
From the Primi menu, we settled on the Pappardelle ai Fungi (RM75), the handmade pasta ribbons cooked to a toothsome al dente perfection, tossed with an earthy, flavour-packed truffle mushroom cream sauce, then showered with Sardinia pecorino cheese. The staff were kind enough to split the dish into individually plated portions, and if this is part of a broader meal, we’d say the full portion is sufficient for three diners. The Primi menu features a total of nine pasta choices and two alluring risotto dishes… we had a tough time making our choice!
Moving on to the Secondi menu, which features a wonderful range of dishes from land and sea, we opted for the Dentice Scottato in Padella (RM75), a delectable Sabah hybrid Malabar Snapper fillet, which was flawlessly prepared and presented. Highlighted with a verdant green pea purée and crushed pistachio and placed atop wilted Australian spinach, this is an outstanding dish for anyone who appreciates fish. We also selected a Filetto di Black Angus (200g, RM168), and you need not speak Italian to know what this dish is. Beautifully tender and grilled to a lovely medium-rare, this magnificent cut of Aussie grass-fed tenderloin satisfied our beef craving, and the rich jus which accompanied the steak was irresistible… easily among the best we’ve had. Sides are available, but we were so beguiled by the tenderloin itself, we completely forgot to order any!
By this point, we were definitely well-fed, and decided to forego any other of the fine selections from the menu (there’s an entire page devoted to pizzas) and proceed to Dolci – the sweet ending to the meal. There are rarely any big surprises when it comes to dessert in an Italian restaurant, and Nero Nero is no exception. The tried-and-true Italian classics are all on hand, so we selected a Tiramisu (RM45) and a Pannacotta e Vanilla (RM37). The tiramisu was very nice, although we thought it could have used a touch more coffee liqueur or a better soaking in espresso for the ladyfingers to give it that characteristic spongy moistness. That said, however, the panna cotta was astounding, with the thick caramel sauce squeezed on top providing a fantastic balance to the perfectly textured custard.
THE WINES
Nero Nero also features a terrific wine list, one that surely would have been embraced by Emperor Nero himself! When we dined, there were two wine lists: an older one and its newer replacement, which will be in place in a matter of weeks. This new wine list has been superbly crafted by Anwar Kabir, the wine sommelier for the Cinnamon Group, which oversees the operations at Nero Nero.
Not surprisingly, there is a strong Italian bias, but the supporting cast has been bolstered by other fine wines, increasing the global range from what was previously only Italian and French offerings. We were impressed with the new ‘wine voyage’ list, which has a write-up on some of the main grape varieties grown in Italy (Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Nero d’Avola, Pinot Grigio, Pecorino, and Chardonnay), plus a map of Italy’s principal wine regions.
Three reds and three whites by the glass are available. Wine purists may find it unusual that for such a detailed and sophisticated wine list, only the grape variety for each of these six wines – Nebbiolo (RM48), Sangiovese (RM40), Nero d’Avola (RM38), Pinot Grigio (RM42), Chardonnay (RM40), and Pecorino (RM45), is listed – with no indication of the label nor the vintage. Additionally, bottles are neither shown nor poured at the table, so wines by the glass simply appear at the table without presentation by the staff. As always, we feel that a restaurant which offers such a refined wine list should be able to provide a complete and proper wine service for those wines which are offered by the glass. Upon our request, however, the bottles made an appearance.
The complete list covers many styles, grape varieties, and Italian regions, plus some from major wine regions outside Italy. The styles include sparkling, red, white, rosé (rosato), and sweet dessert wines, including Vin Santo. Diners can choose from prosecco (sparkling white or rosé) or Champagnes such as those from the houses of Bollinger, Palmer, and Pol Roger. The dessert wines include Moscato d’Asti (a white and, interestingly, a red Brachetto from Anna Ghione in Piedmont).
The list of Italian whites is enticing, with estates such as Elena Walch (Alto Adige), Anna Ghione (Piedmont), Marchesi Antinori (Sardinia), Cantina Zaccagnini (Tuscany), and Pio Cesare (Piedmont) represented. White wines from around the globe on offer include those from Spain, Germany, New Zealand, Lebanon, Syria, France and Australia. Of these, wine connoisseurs will be pleased to identify iconic wines, such as Chateau Musar Jeune Blanc from Lebanon (RM290), Moss Wood Semillon from Margaret River (RM350), and Domaine De Burgylus Blanc from Syria (RM450). One of the most affordable white is Bodegas Piqueras El Abuelo Blanc, a Spanish Sauvignon Blanc/Verdejo blend (RM250).
Global reds from South Africa (KWV Pinotage), USA (Sterling Cabernet Sauvignon and Chateau Ste Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot), Spain (Bodegas Ramon Tempranillo), and Australia (Yalumba Cabernet Sauvignon and Yarra Yering Pinot Noir) should excite most aficionados.
Suffice it to say, however, at Nero Nero, these global listings are outnumbered by impressive Italian reds such as Le Macioche Brunello di Montalcino (RM750), Super Tuscans such as Querciabella Camartina Toscano IGT (RM990), and the iconic Brunello di Montalcino Biondi Santi (RM1,150). Diners with a hefty budget for wine will definitely appreciate the inclusion of these excellent bottles on the list.
We loved dining at Nero Nero. In fact, in many ways, the experience exceeded our expectations and we can heartily recommend it. We’re not sure we’d call this restaurant a ‘hidden gem,’ though. For one thing, it’s just too cliché – talk about an overused descriptor! But for another, the fact that Nero Nero has stood the test of time, all while being located on the sparsely tenanted third floor of a relatively quiet shopping mall speaks volumes. Clearly it’s not so hidden at all, and draws in enough hungry patrons to keep things going… diners who appreciate the excellent food, comprehensive wine list, and inviting Italian bistro ambiance, all punctuated by knowledgeable, friendly service.
Additional text by David Bowden
Location and Details
Nero Nero
Damansara City Mall, Level 3
6 Jalan Damanlela, Bukit Damansara
50490 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +603 2011 2448
Open daily: Lunch 12pm – 3pm, Dinner 6pm – 11pm
Reservations accepted
